Finding Treasures Along the Old North Trail

Walking the path followed for thousands of years

Last weekend, I had the treat of joining my friend Dave Shea, a retired backcountry ranger at Glacier National Park and an all-around walking encyclopedia when it comes to anything related to nature and Native Peoples, to tour part of the Old North Trail.

This ancient trail led people from the MacKenzie River region into Mexico for thousands of years, and even as late as the 1950s, when Metis and Blackfeet traveled by wagon on part of the route.

Today, the trail crosses public and private land, and while much of it is lost to the elements, more is plowed under, paved over, or lies beneath buildings. Fortunately, decades ago, a handful of forward-thinking conservationists recognized the value of this history and took steps to preserve it for future generations. We are also blessed with knowledgeable folks, such as Dave, who point out artifacts and share stories so they are not lost forever.

Following the Bison Drive

During this outing, we walked along a low ridge across the prairie following the path of worn, lichen-covered cairns. Dave pointed out a teepee ring, which was obviously a traditional camp spot, and the distinct stone piles that guided generations.

Along the ridge, we walked through limber pines, a transitional species between the prairie and the mountains, that were heavy with new cones. Once the wind stopped howling for a few minutes, a couple of Clark’s nutcrackers announced their presence as they flew into a stand. They rely heavily on the seeds of these trees and are a keystone species in this ecosystem, perpetuating the limber pines when they forget cached seeds.

Finding an Eagle Trap

Near the high point on the ridge, Dave pointed out an eagle trap. Tribal members would either dig out or build up an area with stone that could be covered with sticks and grass to conceal the person below. During the autumn eagle migration, a hunk of meat was placed on the top as bait, and the person waited. Dave mentioned they would usually have a stick with them to dissuade ravens, magpies, or coyotes from stealing the meat.

When an eagle landed, they grabbed a leg, pulled the eagle down, and broke its neck. I’m sure that sounds far easier than the reality, but that is the basic concept. Eagles are considered sacred, and Native people have long used the feathers for ceremonial regalia, but Dave said they never ate the birds.

Visiting Methuselah

Heading down and traveling back to the vehicles at the base of the ridge, Dave pointed out his favorite tree, which he calls Methuselah, an ancient limber pine. Delicious currants grew at its base, which I thought was interesting because currants are the primary carriers of blister rust, the fungal infection that wiped out many of the white bark and limber pines in the region.

We also walked past the area that was most likely used as a makeshift corral, a depression along the ridge, where the Native people drove the bison to make it easier for them to shoot them with arrows.

Near the end, he pointed out a massive erratic, a huge stone deposited by a glacier, that is worn around it from thousands of years of bison, then cattle, walking around it. Its end was worn smooth on one spot from the animals using it as a scratching post.

Dave took us to several of the Old North Trail markers that were installed years ago to mark the route followed by Native people for many years. There are 23 markers within 40 miles, a small snippet of the overall trail, but a good start to preserve what remains.

Paying Respects at the Métis Cemetery

Our final stop was a visit to the Métis Cemetery on the Nature Conservancy's property in Pine Butte Swamp. The Métis are a mixed heritage culture that originated when British and French fur traders had children with Native women during the 17th and 18th centuries in Canada. Not accepted by either their Native tribes or Europeans, they formed their own culture and traditions. The people in this area were driven from Canada after numerous conflicts in the 1860s, and settled near the Teton River. At its peak, there were about 100 people and nearly two dozen structures.

From what I understand, most everyone moved away by the 1920s. The land was initially purchased by a white neighbor, then given to the Nature Conservancy. The cemetery is cared for by Al and Elaine Wiseman. As a Métis, Al remembers many of the stories of his family, which is why it’s so important for him to maintain this sacred place.

Walking the path generations used before us is a sobering reminder that this landscape isn’t just for us. I’m grateful for the folks who recognized this decades ago, and am hopeful that more will pick up the effort so we can share this knowledge with generations hundreds of years from now.