The Magic of the American Prairie

The mountains are in easy sell, but it takes a special soul to fall in love with the overwhelming expanse of the prairie. During a recent visit to the American Prairie and the Charles M. Russell National Wildlife Refuge (CMR), it was a memorable time to reconnect with this wild and remote region of Montana.

There's no question we are blessed in Montana. With approximately 30 million acres of public land there is plenty of room to roam, particularly in the eastern part of the state. Encompassing more land than the size of Connecticut, the combination of public lands with the roughly 450,000 acres of owned or leased property of the American Prairie provides unparalleled opportunities for every level of outdoor recreation. When you’re here, you understand why Montana is called “Big Sky Country.” The Missouri River winds through the breaks, which are basically rugged, reversed mountains, while the sage covered prairie and vast grasslands seemingly extend forever. You either find yourself … or feel very lost.

My family is no stranger to the CMR, what we call “the breaks.” One of our early camping adventures for my husband, Grant, and I was in this region during the fall. Grant assured me it would be t-shirt weather for the most part, but holding true to the variability of this area, we woke up to -7 degrees F. in the tent the next morning. Thankfully, with my standard preparation level that would make an Eagle Scout proud, beyond thawing out my contacts, the cold did not put a damper on the weekend. But it was an early lesson on the harshness of this country.

When I learned about the American Prairie several years ago, their work immediately caught my interest. One of their goals over these past couple of decades is to purchase and lease land to piece together the public and private sections with the ultimate objection of having over three million acres open to the public.

When looking at a map of this area, it's easy to notice public land that is essentially "landlocked" where there is no way to legally access it. The American Prairie tries to connect these pieces, oftentimes by purchasing ranches that have been up for sale for years, if not decades. One of my favorite sections is the historic PN Ranch, which is approximately 47,000 acres purchased by the American Prairie for around $20,000,000. It had been for sale for a considerable amount of time; thankfully with its current ownership, it’s now accessible to all of us.

Yet, despite the size of the American Prairie, it’s not like visiting a national park where there is one big land mass. Currently there are nine units comprising their system ranging from the PN Ranch near Judith Landing in their westernmost area to Timber Creek just north of Fort Peck Reservoir. The newly opened American Prairie Discovery Center located in Lewistown is a good place to start for information and a must-see for families because of their plethora of hands-on activities, including a room that brings the lore of the night sky close to home. It helps to understand the land before you see it.

Trails Plowed Under

Beyond providing more opportunities for those who wish to experience the prairie, the big picture goal for the American Prairie is all about preserving one of the few remaining temperate grasslands in the world. These ecosystems are the least protected ecosystems, yet support an amazing variety of wildlife and plants in typically arid or, at best, semi-arid climates

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While the American Prairie supports and provides grazing leases on some of the properties, in areas where the land was never plowed, they are actively working on restoring the native grassland. Throughout this process they are improving wildlife habitat, including removing ancient barbed wire fence and replacing it with wildlife friendly fencing where needed. Walking in the area, you notice the fence line with a smooth wire on the bottom that is typically higher than other fences in this area. This is to allow antelope to squeeze underneath since they typically don't jump over like deer or elk. On the top row there is reflective flagging so the larger animals can properly judge the height.

Wildlife Watching and Fishing Opportunities

One of their most visible wildlife projects was restoring bison to this area for the first time in 120 years. Located on the Sun Prairie, Dry Fork and White Wolf units, it’s possible for visitors to view the herds traveling through these areas. This entire region is also known for healthy elk herds so it's important to include bison back into this historic landscape

.Because of this attention to habitat, the American Prairie is an excellent area for birders and wildlife watchers, along with those fascinated with the floral realm. And with the Missouri River running through the heart of the area, fishing opportunities abound. Throughout its stretch to Fort Peck Reservoir, anglers target walleye, sauger, bass, pike and catfish, along with potentially catching pallid and shovelnose sturgeon, although the endangered pallid sturgeon are always thrown back. Potentially living over 50 years old, these fish thrive in the murky waters of the Missouri River, and catching either of these species is a fascinating glimpse into their prehistoric past. Renowned paleontologist, Jack Horner, points out that these fish existed during the Cretaceous period, the time when Tyrannosaurs walked this area, which isn’t difficult to imagine when you’re holding a fish that is armored in bony scutes, the modified scales made of calcium carbonate, giving them a much more ancient appearance.

Logistics of the Roads

As you might gather, venturing through this area is not always easy. A high clearance four-wheel-drive vehicle is preferred, or even necessary, in much of the region. Even so, with any precipitation dirt roads turn to gumbo, the insidious bentonite clay that transforms from a powder to a greasy mess that clings to everything and mires anything that moves. The best advice is to steer clear of unpaved roads if there is rain in the forecast. There have been many instances where vehicles were buried up to their frames because they didn't skedaddle fast enough.

If you find yourself in a situation of unexpected rain, the best course of action is to continue to move forward, but don’t gun it. The more you try to muscle your way through, the more you dig yourself into the gumbo. While it’s impossible to describe how every rig should handle the situation, in general, if you are stuck, stop and wait for it to dry. (Keep in mind that a wrecker won’t even attempt to pull you out until the ground is solid once again. Plus, your cell phone probably won’t work anyway.) Keep an eye on the forecast and stick to the gravel roads if there’s any precipitation in the forecast.

True Remoteness

But there is beauty in the gumbo. It's a reminder of the wildness of this country. It puts life into perspective. With all of our technology, sometimes nature says, “No,” and we need to respect that.

This is a big part of the appeal of the American Prairie. There are a few designated campsites — and some are quite luxurious — along with dispersed camping upon American Prairie deeded land and the adjacent public lands, but your trip is your own. I've heard it referred to as the IKEA of travel. There are not many well-marked trails, such as in our national parks or even national forests, and the gumbo can be unforgiving, but the expanse of the prairie greets you at every step.

Antelope Creek Campground

Although we've traveled extensively in this area, this year we treated ourselves to a night at the Antelope Creek Campground roughly an hour and 20 minutes north of Lewistown, which is one of the few larger towns in the area. If you are heading this way, this is where you want to fill your gas tank and grab any last minute items you need

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Situated on the west side of US Highway 191, the four cabins and spots for RVs and tents blend in well into the landscape. The cabins are clean and basic with beds and a small table, along with a picnic table outdoors and a lovely little porch. There's even a heater and air conditioning unit because the summertime temperatures can be chilly in the morning and scorching by the afternoon. A very clean and well organized bathhouse is also a welcomed amenity, although it has the softest water you'll probably ever experience. About the only mineral prevalent is magnesium, which makes it feel good on your skin, but if you drink too much it, be warned that it can have an unpleasant laxative effect.

After unloading gear and chatting with Rod and Brenda, the exceptionally knowledgeable and outgoing camp hosts, we took a stroll around the property on the two mile long nature trail to examine the remnants of an old Kendall family homestead and gawking at the early summer flowers. To the north, the Little Rocky Mountains make a beautiful backdrop, although it's impossible not to notice the green, unnatural meadow in the center of the range. This is where the Pegasus Mine took the top off of the mountain in the search for gold.

My quest was to looking for burrowing owls that make their home within the prairie dog towns. And while we didn't see any during our initial walk or another trek out closer to dusk, it was still entertaining to watch the prairie dogs as they alerted each other to our presence and dove for cover when we walked too closely

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One of the best parts of this area is the night sky. Waking shortly after midnight, I headed outside to look at the stars. With no moon, the Milky Way lit up the night. It’s shocking that only 80 percent of the United States population can see the Milky Way where they live, and even though it's very visible at our home in Great Falls, it was particularly stunning in the pure darkness of the prairie. Stretching out on the picnic table to gaze at the cosmos puts the craziness of the world into perspective.

Additional Base Camp Options

Besides Antelope Creek Campground, there is Buffalo Camp, as well as a series of yurts and huts in different parts of the American Prairie. The Founders Hut, along with the John and Margaret Craighead Hut are both made up two 30-feet diameter connected yurts, while the Lewis and Clark Hut is more of a cabin perched above the Missouri River. All three are located on the PN Ranch. Solar panels provide the power for the refrigerator, lights and outlet to charge small appliances, while propane runs the stove. A composting toilet system in a small, nearby yurt makes “roughing it” far more comfortable.

For those who wish to stay closer to where the bison roam, Buffalo Camp in the Sun Prairie Unit is roughly 50 Miles south of Malta, which is the next largest town in proximity to this remote region of the state, and offers RV and tent sites. This is more primitive with non-potable water and a vault toilet, but there is Wi-Fi and an emergency phone at the Enrico Science and Education Center a mile south of Buffalo Camp.

Planning a Trip

With such a vast amount of area to cover, it's overwhelming to try to see everything in one outing. In reality, it would take a lifetime to experience the different seasons and moods of the region. My best advice is to pick a unit of the American Prairie and study the maps to thoroughly immerse yourself into the remaining oceans of grass and rugged country that holds the mighty Missouri River. Whether you choose a base camp at one of the designated areas or opt to pick your own spot in this enormous landscape, you’ll see the world — and the night sky —in a completely different light.

For maps and current travel information, visit americanprairie.org.